Na Shledanou.... for real, this time!

I will be on a plane home in about 12 hours. For me and many of my colleagues, it's an extremely strange feeling. I'm leaving this place that I've come to think of as my "home-base" of sorts for the past 4 months and it's an interesting phenomenon - a mix of happiness, sadness, and the knowledge that everything hasn't quite sunk in just yet. I'm sure that next week I'll feel a whole new range of emotions that I can really only know once I have some perspective and can look at things in retrospect.

This has been an amazing experience - there's no debating that. Did I miss home at points? Yes. Were there times that I wanted to just come back to the US? Absolutely. Living in a foreign environment can take a toll on you - especially in an environment where you don't speak the language and don't really stand much of a chance at learning it, beyond basic survival phrases. That being said, I've definitely gained some perspective on what it's like to be a foreigner in someone else's home turf... and I hope that I'll be able to draw on my experiences here in my interactions with foreigners back home. In my first few blogs, I frequently referred to Study Abroad here as a "trip." Let me say, after completing the program, that this was not just a trip, not a vacation, not a tourist excursion. I can say proudly that I have lived in Prague and really got more out of that experience than I could ever have hoped to from just a visit. Many people come back from abroad and refer to their destination as their "second home." That won't be me. After getting a feel of the city and really experiencing the ins and outs of Czech everyday life, I can say with full certainty that I will not be returning back to live here. And although I appreciate many things about the Czech Republic and Prague, there are many aspects to life here which definitely are just a little too much for me to handle, though I have tried my best to understand why these things are the way they are.

I'm so thankful for the chance to spend this semester in a way that I never thought I ever would. I've done so many things, seen so many places, and gotten to know so many people that have opened my eyes to new things. And although I didn't get to see everything I wanted to (both in Prague and elsewhere in Europe), I've come to realize that this is a reality of traveling: for every one thing I didn't get to do, I was able to do something else that was not even on my radar at the beginning of the semester - in fact, two of my favorite places I visited this semester (Bruges and Switzerland) we never in the master plan before I left for Prague. This spontaneity, to me, is the most exciting thing about travel.

Anyway, I hope to post at least one more entry once I've get back to the states, but should that not be possible, I'd like to thank everyone who's followed along with my journeys. It's been a fun ride, and I hope you've enjoyed reading my thoughts and feelings about the places I've seen. I look forward to discussing them in further detail with many of you in person!

So - to Prague - NA SHLEDANOU and DEKUJI MOC!

A Beer-tastic excursion

"Imagine the sense of wonder when its golden colour glittered and the snow-white head rose above it; how drinkers were amazed when they encountered the crisp, remarkable taste, till then unknown among beers, in which this domestic product gloried" - such were the grandiloquent words with which the chronicler described the day when citizens of Pilsen first tasted Pilsner lager.

The preceding quote was taken directly from the pamphlet I received at the Pilsner Urquell factory in Plzen (English spelling: Pilsen) in Western Bohemia, Czech Republic. As you can tell, Czechs are serious about their beer... and for those of you who don't know, Pilsner Urquell is considered by most to be the premier beer of the Czech Republic. So what better to do on a Friday off than a day trip out to the place where the stuff is made... the Pilsner Brewery?!

After arriving in the city of Plzen, looking around a bit, and scarfing down a good helping of delicious Czech food (goulash, dumplings, etc.), my friends and I made our way to the factory. We paid a whopping 80kc apiece - the equivalent of $4 - for our tour... and since it's the off season for tourism, we were the only English-speakers there and were thus treated to our own private tour guide! On the tour we got a feel for the entire beer-making process, as well as an idea of the history of beer-brewing in Plzen. We were able to see where the beer was packaged (right), mixed, brewed, fermented, and stored.... and, of course, got to taste the raw products that go into the beer (hops, water, barley), as well as the beverage itself! The beer we got was poured from a tap straight out of the barrel - aka, it was not fully fermented, nor was it filtered or pasteurized! Even though it still had some "stuff" floating around in it, it was definitely some of the best beer I've had - and that's saying a lot!

They even had a Pilsner vending machine!!!

It's Christmastime in Prague!!

...and what does that mean? Christmas markets all over the city!

The biggest is in Old Town Square - Staromestske Namesti - and has rows and rows of booths selling traditional food, sweets, hot wine, gifts, and more. They even have a pen with farm animals!! Of course, the centerpiece is a beautifully lit tree, which stands in front of Tyn Cathedral. I know I'm in the Christmas spirit!

Thanksgiving, Prague-style

*Photo Courtesy of Julie Moody -- thanks!

Let me preface this entry by saying that Thanksgiving in Prague was not the same as Thanksgiving at home. Not even close. In fact, classes were held on Thanksgiving day, and many of our professors were oblivious to the fact that it was an American holiday; of course, Czech life went on here in Prague as if nothing was out of the ordinary..... and for good reason! I was not with my family, was not able to watch the parade (as I lamented in my previous post), and missed many aspects of what is usually one of my favorite holidays.

That being said, the crew here at NYU in Prague did a pretty solid job in bringing some of the comforts of home here to the Czech Republic. I actually celebrated Thanksgiving twice - on Thanksgiving Thursday, pretty much the whole of NYU in Prague trekked to Richtruv Dum - one of our buildings in Old Town - to enjoy a feast catered by the owner of an American-style restaurant in town. The event was organized by one of the students here at NYU, who I'm pretty sure had no idea how big of an undertaking he was getting himself into, but nonetheless managed to pull off a pretty darn good event, if you ask me. Imagine 200 NYU students (and some family, friends, and staff), plus an open bar, plus all the home-style, traditional American Thanksgiving food you can eat..... and good food, at that! I think a lot of people were not sure what to expect going into their first "Czech Thanksgiving," but we were all quite pleasantly surprised!

Our second Thanksgiving was held last night, with almost all the members of Osadni, our 60-person dormitory, pitching in to put on a full-blown pot-luck Thanksgiving. Again - wonderful (and home-cooked!!) food, lots of drinks (it is the Czech Republic, after all), and wonderful company, as well. I managed to contribute some delicious mixed vegetables, roasted with rosemary - something I think many people were grateful for, given the lack of vegetables on many Czech menus. All food aside, if I couldn't be with my real family on Thanksgiving, I was so happy to be in the company of my surrogate one here in Prague. It's been quite a memorable weekend, which I think I'll definitely remember not for what I missed, but rather for what I had..... isn't that the point of Thanksgiving, after all?

A picture of the gang at Osadni Thanksgiving

Baths, Communism, the Danube, and Thanksgiving!

Budapest and the Czech Republic are two very different places. The language, the people, the food, the currency...... though Budapest was evocative of Prague and other European cities (namely Vienna), it was certainly a place unlike anywhere I had been before. Here's the general rundown of my weekend in Hungary:

Our first night there, we were super exhausted (after an 8-hour train ride, can you blame us?). So we decided to hit the BATHS. Hungarian baths are an awesome, unique, confusing, and certainly interesting experience. Pretty much, Szecheny (the baths we went to) are located in a beautiful and HUGE neo-classical complex that houses saunas, massage rooms, locker rooms, steam rooms, etc. And the building is located around a giant outdoor courtyard with three gigantic hot pools filled with mineral water. We decided to forego the saunas and went in the actual baths instead. They're super relaxing and very refreshing...... until you decide to switch to a new one, at which point you get out of the pool into the FREEZING winter air and run across the deck to the next pool. Still, we had a great time relaxing and partaking in a typical Hungarian activity!

Taking advantage of the fantastic exchange rate, we had some great Hungarian meals, especially our first night. We found a very nice restaurant/winery, got ourselves a gigantic platter of meat and cheeses, a bottle of wine, and entrees.... all for about $20! Budapest also has great Turkish food, as well as great traditional cuisine - think goulash, meats in sauce, fishes, etc. It's easy to eat very well for under $10!

Other highlights of Budapest:

- A fantastic walking tour, taking us to all the main sites of Buda and Pest (Budapest is actually 2 cities). We saw St. Stephen's Cathedral (and the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand, where St. Stephen's right hand lies in a reliquary!), the many bridges running along the Danube, the castles in the Castle District (Castle Hill), the Bastion, and many aerial views taken from the Buda side.

- A trip to the Grand Market, where we got some great Hungarian food for lunch and enjoyed looking at the merchants selling spices, wines, meats, and fruit.

- A few visits to the wonderful Christmas market they had set up in the main square at the foot of Vaci Utca - the main street in Budapest. (right)

- A visit to Heroes Square, the site of a few picturesque museums, as well as an impressive victory arch.

- We went to the "House of Terror," the former headquarters of the communist party in Hungary, which now serves as a museum documenting Hungary's political history. This museum was incredibly depressing, yet also very eye-opening. It seems as though the Hungarians have had one political misfortune after another, especially in the 1900s, with Nazism and many different periods of oppressive communist rule. It was chilling to see the cellar of the building, where countless people were tortured, imprisoned, and executed just for exercising their freedom of speech - against the party in power. In any event, it's much easier to understand why the Hungarian people (and the Czech people, for that matter) can come across as unhappy, mistrusting, and reserved. Definitely makes one stop and think about the basic freedoms that we take for granted in America. It's really unbelievable to me that such oppression can rise to power without a significant amount of people stopping to think that something might be seriously wrong...

- After a pretty somber experience at the museum, our hostel organized a booze cruise along the Danube, followed by a pub crawl - those certainly lifted our spirits!

- Before we left, we followed Budapest tradition and stopped at Gerbeaud Cafe to relax, sip some Viennese-style coffee, and enjoy delicious cakes!

As far as I know, I'm officially done with trips out of the Czech Republic for the semester. I've had SUCH an amazing time traveling all over Europe, but I'm really excited to settle down, stay in Prague for a few weeks, and finish seeing and doing all the things that I haven't gotten around to yet. It's hard to believe that I'm only here for another 4 weeks, but I'm really very excited to get back to the US. We're looking forward to Thanksgiving in Prague - some of us in my dorm are cooking a traditional style meal - but I can't help but think that it's not quite the same..... I'm going to miss watching the Macy's Parade on Thursday morning, and of course being with my family. My Mom has reminded me, though, that although it's tough to be away from home, I'm having experiences here that many people can only dream of. For that, I'm truly thankful. I hope everyone has a great holiday - talk to you soon!

A few days in the Swiss Alps.... it sure is a tough life.

Let me tell you.... some things just keep on getting better and better - namely, my trips around Europe. This past monday was a Czech holiday (celebrating the Velvet Revolution), so naturally we decided to go somewhere on our extra-long weekend! Some of my friends and I chose Interlaken, Switzerland..... and what a great choice it was! Now, there's not much sightseeing to do in Interlaken, meaning there are very few churches, public buildings, monuments, famous landmarks, etc. But the beauty of the Swiss Alps in the Jungfrau Region (where Interlaken is located) is truly breathtaking and the people are so friendly (especially as opposed to the more reserved nature of the Czechs). After a 12-hour bus ride there (major bummer), We spent our three days in Interlaken relaxing, taking in the sights, hiking, going way up in the mountains....... oh yeah, and I also jumped off of an 80m/250ft cliff!

The 80m Cliff I jumped off of!!

Yeah, I'm not kidding. It was the scariest, craziest thing I've ever done in my life..... but what a rush! Canyon Jumping is pretty much like bungee jumping, except instead of jumping backwards and straight down, you jump right off of a platform (free fall) and into the canyon, all the while looking at the rocky surface below! The good news is that I, in fact, have lived to tell the tale.

Aside from insane extreme sports, we got to see so many absolutely stunning parts of the Swiss Alps and Interlaken's surrounding lakes, as well as the city of Bern (not my favorite, but still quite charming, albeit insanely expensive). On our second day, we woke up at 6am to catch a 7am train to Jungfraujoch, the "top of Europe" and the highest train station on the continent. As we climbed higher and higher along the 2.5 hour trip, it became snowier and ever more scenic. It was definitely the most beautiful train ride I've ever been on - the sights of the tiny Swiss towns, and then the expanse of the mountains were absolutely unbelievable. And once we got to the top, it was even more impressive than we had hoped. Of course, Jungfraujoch is covered with snow, ice, and glaciers, and you can see as far as France and Italy.... where it looks like the ground is covered with water in the distance far below, it is actually a layer of clouds that we were above! And at the Jungfraujoch complex, there are observatories, a plateau that one can observe the view from, and a huge palace completely made of ice and laden with intricate ice sculptures!

On our way down, the train stopped at many small towns, and we were able to hop on and off the train as we pleased. After exploring a few, we decided to get off at Grindelwald and find a trail to hike. Needless to say, we ventured far away from Grindelwald on our 2+ hour hike and found our way far, far up in the mountains, passing through many small towns, as well as natural creeks and waterfalls. The Swiss houses were almost like right out of a movie, and the views were, again, absolutely breathtaking. 

I know I often encourage you guys to have a look at my pictures, but I really mean it this time! If you go to my Picasa (link on the right), you can see the entirety of my photo collection from Switzerland. They are absolutely stunning.

It seems as though there is no rest for the weary.... tomorrow morning, I leave for Budapest - the last of my many excursions around Europe!

Auf Wiedersehen!

Lake of Brienz, one of the two surrounding Interlaken

On Being American in Europe

Studying in Europe for a semester has given me so much added perspective on what it means to be American - both personally and as viewed by foreigners. It has made me become more aware of my actions, mannerisms, and language and also those of other Americans around me. It's a strange environment here, being an American surrounded by non-Americans. And though I could not purport to have the same trains of thought as a European, I think that my perspective has shifted, and I am much more able to look objectively at my fellow Americans, especially those I've encountered here in Europe.

It's too bad that Americans get a bad rap, throughout Europe in particular, as bad guests. But again, after traveling around for a bit, it can be pretty easy to see why. After all, I've found that the archetypical "ugly American" is not a myth, but a sad fact. This is not to say that all Americans are obnoxious, loud, and impolite, but unfortunately, those exhibiting such behaviors are, about 4 times out of 5, indeed Americans. What exactly are these behaviors, though? What is an Ugly American? Some of the answers might surprise you as they have me, but many will be painfully obvious. Of course, these are just my observations after traveling around Europe, particularly the Czech Republic.

-The Ugly American is loud. Like, really loud, especially in comparison to those around them. Many public places in Europe, such as subways and trams tend to be quiet, but the Ugly American pays no attention.

-The Ugly American assumes and expects that everyone speaks English. He does not attempt to learn or use the language of the country that he is in, even in a basic capacity.

-The Ugly American is mistrusting of the country he is visiting and the people in it. He assumes that goods and services in that country will inevitably be inferior to those of the US.

-The Ugly American constantly compares the USA to the country he is visiting. Instead of acknowledging, or even enjoying cultural differences, he is quick to criticize them.

-The Ugly American dresses in clothes laden with American logos.

-The Ugly American expects foreigners to understand and comply with American nuances in language, mannerisms, and customs, instead of attempting to conform to those of the country he is visiting. He does not pick up on cultural cues.

-The Ugly American would rather eat something familiar than try something traditional to the country he is visiting.

-The Ugly American has difficulty grasping the concept that most cities are not created solely for tourists and that native people are not tourist attractions.

-The Ugly American sees sights for the sake of seeing them. He does not attempt to understand their cultural or historical significance.

I'm sure I could come up with more.... I'd be curious to have some feedback on this issue, as well. Do you agree or disagree?

I'm off to Interlaken, Switzerland for a long weekend. I have BIG plans, but will keep them secret until the actually pan out!

A Picture Blog on Vienna

This past Thursday-Friday, I went to Vienna with my parents. Here are some of my favorite pictures:

The Entrance to the Hapsburgs' Schönbrunn Palace

In the back of the palace

Statue of Mozart

Other highlights of Vienna:

- Trip to the Sound Museum and to Mozart's House

- Seeing Die Fledermaus (a Strauss Operetta) at the Volksoper

- A walk around the entire main ring of the city, observing the Viennese architecture and grandiose buildings and churches

- Delicious Viennese pastries and Schnitzel, of course!

And last, but not least... 

- Getting to spend some quality time with my parents!

FALL BREAK

I'm back from my fantastic trip to Belgium and the Netherlands, and rather than rehash everything I did (there's absolutely no way), I'll try to give some highlights instead. I will say that on my trip I:

-Ate more frites, waffles, and chocolate than I thought humanly possible

-Learned that I am not and never will be Flemish (thanks to a long conversation - we're talking 3 hours - with a Flemish man at a pub in Brugge)

-Climbed 2 church towers and a giant atom for a total of 3 panoramic city views

-Discovered that there can be a language barrier abroad

-Almost got run over by approximately 300 bicycles

-Found a vast array of ethnic diversity in places that I wouldn't have expected

-Was on more trains than I can count (and got to where I was going without any problem!)

-Saw original Picasso, Monet, Manet, Michelangelo, Van Gogh, Rembrant, Dali, and modern art pieces, just to name a few

-Found that Amsterdam consists of much more than its Red Light District

-Developed a deeper understanding of Dutch and Belgian culture.... and, subsequently, formulated many new reflections on Czech culture, as well.

...... and that's the trip in a nutshell!

BRUGGE

Brugge is my new favorite city. In the world. It is also, by far, the most beautiful city I've ever been to in my life. Brugge is considered to be the best-preserved medieval town in the world, which really is also reflected in its character. The people are lovely and speak English very well, in addition to their native Flemish. We really felt at home in Brugge and also had a bit of time to wander, relax, and take in the beautiful surroundings. Our first day, that's about all we did, and it still seemed like we saw so much! Other things we did in Brugge:

-Climbed to the top of the bell tower

-Ate our first Frites (with Andalouse sauce, a mix of ketchup, mayo, and spices), waffles, chocolate, and mussels

-Took a boat along the many canals of Bruges (the tour was in at least 3-4 languages, led by one person!)

-Saw the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which contains a relic, purportedly of Jesus's actual blood

-Went to the Chocolate Museum - yum!

-Met some locals at a few pubs (all were so nice and welcomed us warmly to their city)

-Saw Michelangelo's "Madonna and Child" in the Church of Our Lady, my new favorite church

-Checked out a few other churches and castles

-Shopped at an awesome market we found along a canal

BRUSSELS

Brussels' reputation preceded it as a city whose beauty...... leaves much to be desired, shall we say. The people speak French, which was a bit difficult, as none of the 4 of us spoke a word, and many of the people in restaurants, etc. didn't speak much English. That being said, Brussels definitely grew on me, and we saw a lot of cool stuff there. Although their parks aren't very well-kept and it seems as though the whole city may be under construction, there was still a lot that we were able to do and see there, including:

-A trip to the GIANT Atomium, Brussels' most famous landmark and the site of the 1956 World's Fair. We also went inside to check it out and see a view of the city from atop!

-The Manneken Pis, Brussels' teeny, but famous statue of a little boy relieving himself

-Seeing many palaces and government buildings of Belgium and the European Union

-Brussels' impressive triumphal arch

-The most bizarre flea market I have ever been to. Ever.

-Brussels' Auto museum, a huge collection of cars dating back to the 1800s and up to the present day

-A late night trip to the restroom..... on the side of a church? Brussels has many urinals located on the sides of impressive cathedrals. God only knows why.

ROTTERDAM

Rotterdam's beauty comes from a different place than Brugge's does, as the city was completely destroyed in WWII. Therefore, Rotterdam (in The Netherlands) is a haven for modern architecture, featuring many impressive skyscrapers and a sleek, white bridge. Rotterdam's maritime importance also plays a big part in its culture, as it is the world's 2nd largest port. I was able to meet my friend Melissa (from LHS!!!) in Rotterdam, as she is studying abroad there this semester. It's awesome how two people from the same town (virtually) can meet up completely across the world in Europe! Melissa was an awesome host and told us a lot about the city..... AND introduced us to kapsalon, one of my new favorite foods, derived from The Netherlands' large Turkish population. It is a recipe for a heart attack, and is made up of french fried, meat, melted cheese, salad, garlic sauce, and hot sauce!!! But trust me, it's delicious! Other adventures in Rotterdam:

-Running around in the POURING rain ALL DAY! This really put a damper on things, but didn't stop us from walking all around the very large and UN-walkable city

-Visiting the Blaak Markt, where we got some fried fish and stroopwafels (another Dutch favorite)

-A self-guided walking tour of the city's modern buildings and shipyards

-A rainy, miserable, horrible (get the picture?) walk across the Erasmus Bridge (above)

-The Nederlands Photo Museum in Rotterdam, which featured a brilliant exhibit of Martien Coppens' work

-The Bojmans museum of modern art.... not my thing, but still very interesting

-Some Dutch croquettes to finish off that leg of our trip!

AMSTERDAM

As a college student, I have heard quite a bit about Amsterdam...... much of which is true. However, Amsterdam is also a beautiful city with an interesting history and a cultural richness, as well. Yes, prostitution is legal and marijuana is not punishable - owing to a pretty interesting nightlife scene - but the city itself exudes a really great energy that has a lot to do with things other than sex and drugs. I found that, of all the places I've visited so far (including Prague and perhaps excluding Dublin), I think I could see myself living in Amsterdam the most. As another city built on a system of canals, Amsterdam was an interesting fusion between classic beauty - a la Brugge - and a consumerist, commercial attitude, which almost reminded me of New York. We spent 2 full days in Amsterdam, going all around the city and doing a lot of really interesting things, including:

-A 3 hour walking tour, which was a great introduction to Dutch and Amsterdam history, architecture, culture, and attitudes

-A visit to the Anne Frank house, where she stayed for 2 years and wrote her diary

-The Van Gogh museum, which (I believe) houses the largest collection of the artist's work

-A taste of Indonesian food, which that region is known for

-A walk through Vondelpark, Amsterdam's most famous (and beautiful) park

-The Sex Museum, one of the best in the world, apparently

-Some of the best goat cheese I've ever eaten in my life, served on bread with honey and roasted red pepper

-A trip through the Red Light District...... quite an interesting experience, as I'm sure you might expect!

-Definitely took advantage of Amsterdam's vibrant nightlife..... but didn't go overboard (don't worry, Mom and Dad!!!)

DELFT

My mother visited Delft a looooooooooooong time ago, when she was backpacking through Europe and urged me to do the same, as it's a beautiful place that evokes a lot of what you might expect from a small Dutch town. A few of us decided to go for a few hours on our last day. And while it was rainy the whole time, we still enjoyed seeing a lot of Delft's beautiful old churches and meandering streets along its canals. We were able to go inside the New Church, where William of Orange is buried, and climb up its bell tower to get an impressive view of the town and its surrounding countryside. We finished up our trip with a quick walk around town, popping into the Old (Oude) Church and getting one final frites and mayonnaise. A fantastic ending to a wonderful, memorable trip.

And tomorrow, my parents arrive here in Prague! Looking forward to seeing them and traveling to Vienna with them, too. And by the next time I write, we'll know who our next president will be, as well. It should be quite an exciting week! As always, you can look at my Picasa for all my pictures (and there are a lot of them this time!). They should hopefully be up by Monday or Tuesday.

Na Shledanou, Praha!

It has certainly been a busy week or so, and I apologize for the glaring lack of updates. Midterms here at NYU in Prague have made me realize that - yes, indeed - I do still go to school, and unfortunately have work to do. Classes here are definitely a bit easier and less work-intensive than in New York, but come midterms, all bets are off. It was kind of strange seeing everyone in my dorm studying! But thankfully, I am all finished with my tests (they went fine, Mom and Dad) and am officially on my fall break!

Last weekend NYU organized a trip to Terezin, a Nazi concentration camp and prison during the holocaust. Terezin is interesting, as it was utilized as a transit camp (many prisoners eventually ended up in Auschwitz) and also heavily as a propaganda tool for the Nazis. As a result, the town is not full of gas chambers and barracks as you might expect; instead, much of Terezin eerily looks like a regular, small Czech town, which it actually does function as today, despite its history. Of course, there are still many remnants from the atrocities committed there, and although it was not a death camp, per se, hundreds of thousands of prisoners (Jews and others) still died there due to the deplorable conditions, illness, starvation, and Nazi cruelty. It certainly is one thing to study the holocaust in a book and another to be on the almost sacred ground in which it took place. Although the ghetto does not look as ominous as one might think, it was definitely a spiritual experience being there. Furthermore, some of you might remember that, back when I was in the boychoir, there was a song cycle we performed, entitled "I Never Saw Another another Butterfly." The work was based on children's poems and

drawings from the Terezin concentration camp - art that they were permitted to create, due to Terezin's propagandized nature. Being in the spot where many of these same poems were written and actually seeing many of the original manuscripts and drawings (including the butterfly drawing) in the museums on site was another experience, which really hit home and made it personal for me. To the right is a picture of a memorial they have on site. Terezin really can be a beautiful place, in spite of its history.

So now I'm gearing up for my fall break! I leave tomorrow a little after 8am, so i'll be waking up early, but today is going to be a long day of packing, getting things together, and planning! I'll be traveling all throughout Belgium and the Netherlands for 10 days, making stops in Bruges, Brussels, Rotterdam, and Amsterdam. I'm sure I'll have many interesting stories to tell when I get back!

Palin Power?

For those of you who are interested in politics and took note of my brief musings on the election from a European perspective, this article does a really good job of clarifying some of my observations:

http://edition.cnn.com/2008/POLITICS/10/16/europe.palin.oakley/index.html?iref=mpstoryview

A quote: "Spain's left wing El Pais described Palin as 'a figure who comes from the America that is farthest removed from and incomprehensible to the European spectator.'"

I know that this is not a political blog, but I've found the political climate here to be particularly interesting, especially at such a crucial point in American politics. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the subject.... in fact, my very Republican roommate and I have had a host of very interesting discussions on the matter. (Yes, I do sleep with a McCain/Palin bumper sticker on my bunk bed.....)

A Giant Purple Bunny in the Vltava River?

This past weekend, I decided to stay in Prague. Let me say, it was one of the best weekends I've had here so far. It provided some great moments to take in the city that I'm living in.... oh yeah, and relax! Believe it or not, going to school and planning trips has taken a significant amount of time and energy. It was really nice to have nothing to worry about for a good four days. And to top it off, most of my friends here in Osadni (my dorm) decided to stay for the weekend, as well. To celebrate, on thursday night, we (about 50 NYU students!!) ventured to Karlovy Lazne, said to be Europe's largest club! With 5 floors playing 5 different types of music, it certainly lived up to its reputation. We had a really awesome time and didn't get home until the wee hours of the morning!

A few of my friends and I decided to go paddle-boating on the Vltava Saturday afternoon. I've been paddle-boating before, but never in a setting like this! We were able to go all up and down the river, seeing many of Prague's great buildings (Vysehrad, the National Theater, Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, etc.). And as we were finishing up, the sun was setting, providing a beautiful backdrop. Having been in Prague for a while, it can be easy to get a bit jaded from seeing such beautiful architecture 24/7. Put going on the boat really reminded me why I'm here and how special of an opportunity this really is. Not to mention, 1 hour on the boats costs only 80 crowns, or about $5.... now that's what I call a bargain!

One of the great things about studying abroad here in the Czech Republic is that I'm able to see a country that I otherwise would have never explored, let alone visited. On Sunday, a few friends and I went to Karlstejn, a small town about 20km outside of Prague, boasting one of the Czech Republic's most famous Gothic castles. We went on somewhat of a whim, but the Czech public transportation system made it fast, easy, and cheap to pick up and go at a moment's notice! Once we got off the train, we walked through the tiny town, which is dotted with restaurants and a bunch of tourist shops, and then walked up a steep hill to the castle. The area surrounding Karlstejn is absolutely beautiful countryside, especially during the fall season. All the leaves are changing, giving the Czech landscape a burnt orange color, perfectly complementing the orange roofs and the natural, earthy color of many of the houses and buildings. Needless to say, the walk up the hill was very pretty, and once we got to the top and came into view of the castle, it was pretty impressive. At this point in our trip, we're all getting a bit tired of guided tours and Czech history, so we opted not to take the guided castle tour, but instead walked around the grounds and still got a feel for the area. And on our way back down to the town, we stopped for a traditional Czech lunch (meat and dumplings with beer, of course!) and then said goodbye to Karlstejn!

In other news:

- I finally received my absentee ballot, after much agony over whether or not I would... it can be a guessing game with the postal service here and also with the State government. Luckily, my vote should get cast in time for the election.

- Last night, NYU sponsored a "language forum" in which we were able to mingle with some Czech university students, who were interested in meeting and talking with Americans. It was a fun night and provided some good insights on the Czech student perspective. There should be more similar events throughout the semester, so perhaps I'll write more in the near future.

- Apparently someone does read my blog! I've been quoted in NYU in Prague's e-zine, The Prague Wanderer. Check it out at http://thepraguewanderer.com. My quote's in the featured article about Czech perceptions of this year's American election.

So that's all for now! I hope everyone back at home is staying well, studying not-too-hard for midterms (if you're an NYU or other college reader), and enjoying the changing season. Keep in touch!

Karlstejn Castle and the surrounding Autumn foliage

P.S. - If you're curious about the title of this post, you'll have to check out the picture gallery from my paddle-boat adventure!

Pictures!

Just a heads up - I was a bit slow in uploading my Dublin pictures to Picasa, but for those of you who have been looking at my albums, they're now up..... enjoy!

Cheers to the Irish!

This past weekend I took a pilgrimage to olde Erin to see the sights, visit some friends, and - to be perfectly honest - take a break from my Central (read: Eastern) European cultural immersion. Mike, one of my good friends, is studying this semester in Dublin at NYU's film program set up there - so I was able to see a great city and hang out with a great friend all at the same time... it's really cool to know people in different parts of the world, and I'm looking forward to hosting some visitors to Prague later in the semester, as well!

My first impression upon stepping onto the streets of Dublin was "why the hell are all the cars driving on the wrong side of the road?" But once I jumped over that hurdle and got to O'Connell Street in the city centre, I then found my way to Temple Bar, the main stretch in Dublin (OK, I got lost and was rescued by my friend). And before I was even able to put my belongings down - we're approaching 11:30 at night - I was immediately summoned to my first Irish bar and treated to a Guinness with black currant (a local favorite).

The next day, I was able to do all of my sightseeing with the help of my friend Mark, a Dubliner and Irish native, who I know through one of my friends at home. Let me say that seeing a city through the eyes of a native really is the best way to do it, and we had a great time walking around the city. I was really taken with how small Dublin actually is - it reminded me more of a very large version of Princeton, actually, as Trinity College gives the Temple Bar area quite the "collegiate" feel. In fact, when I walked around Trinity, they happened to be having a club fair that day - I was mistaken for a Trinity student many times!

After walking around and seeing Christ Church, Dublin Castle (above), The Chester Beatty Library, and City Hall, I made my way over to the Book of Kells. The Book of Kells, a bible transcribed by Celtic Monks around the year 800, is housed in the library of Trinity College and is said to be one of the most beautifully-penned books ever written. It certainly was gorgeous and lived up to the hype. Afterwards, I met up with Mark and we headed over to an Irish must: the Guinness factory!! It was really

 cool to see the process by which they cultivate, brew, distribute, and advertise their beer, a product which the Irish are so proud of. The tour of the museum ended with free pints that we got to pour on our own and take up to the "gravity bar," which

overlooks the entire city of Dublin. The day ended with a long walk around town, making stops at St. Stephen's Green and Dublin's shopping district on Grafton Street (left). Other highlights of the weekend included a visit to the famous Phoenix Park, where we saw the president of Ireland's house, a few chances to take advantage of Dublin's vibrant nightlife, walks along the River Liffey, and my first encounter with "real" fish & chips, possibly the greasiest mountain of food I've ever come across in my entire life (but absolutely delicious!).

I mentioned it before, but this weekend really was a good chance to get away from the sometimes-overbearing experience of living in a completely foreign place, having to adapt to a new culture and language. Although Ireland certainly is culturally rich (and there's even somewhat of a language barrier!), there's no doubt that it's closer in its ways of doing things to the US than the Czech Republic. I think that going to Dublin gave me a taste of how different Prague really is from a western city. I have to admit that, leaving Ireland and arriving back here in Prague, I did feel a little bit of longing for the stuff I've left behind, especially some simple things that I wouldn't have necessarily expected to miss. In any event, now it's back to the daily grind.... and time to keep pushing forward, learning, adapting, and enjoying my time here!

As they say in Dublin - Cheers!

Foreign policy while the sun comes up

A quick update to keep you up to speed on things, although there's nothing terribly exciting to report.... it's been a relatively normal week here in the Czech Republic. For two of my classes we went to Prague Castle (two days in a row!). It's really amazing how there's SO much to see up there and so many angles to study it from. The first class we were studying the religious evolution in Prague  and how it is reflected in the complex (from pre-christian settlements to monastic catholicism to more modern catholicism). And the next day we went as part of my architecture class. It really makes it better every time I go there to know how the cultural, religious, and historical contexts interact with one another.... it makes it really exciting to see the final product and understand why it is how it is, as well as how it got to that point. The 2nd day, we were finally able to visit the interior of St. Vitus Cathedral, which is one of the best examples of Czech Gothic architecture, not to mention the most famous and grandiose cathedral here in Prague. 

On Thursday night I was treated to a performance of Smetana's opera "The Bartered Bride" at the National Theater. For those of you who have been reading pretty consistently, you might remember that I was pretty underwhelmed with Turandot at the State Theater. Well, this was a complete turnaround from that experience. Smetana is considered the "grandfather" of Czech music, and The Bartered Bride is a classic example of Czech opera (to give you an idea, the 2nd act opens in a beer hall with the entire chorus singing praises to the beverage!). Not only was the opera itself surprisingly a fantastic, fun work (my familiarity with Czech music leaves much to be desired), but the singers and the production itself were really top notch. I intend to go back the National Theater more often!

In other news, NYU took us on a trip to Kutna Hora yesterday. Kutna Hora is (believe it or not) a well-known Czech city famous both for its churches and architecture and also for its legacy as a silver-mining town. We were able to learn all about Kutna Hora's silver minting, dating back to the 14th century and even went way down into a silver mine to walk through the very narrow corridors dripping with slimy limestone! Of course, we went to St. Barbara's Cathedral, the most famous church in Kutna Hora, as well as Kutna Hora's well-known bone church. Yes, a church adorned entirely with human bones! It was actually pretty creepy, if you ask me, but nonetheless a cool thing to see. To the left, you can see the bone chandelier, comprised of at least one of each type of bone from the human body. Unfortunately, I forgot to bring my camera to Kutna Hora, so I had to steal this picture from a friend!

Last night, a bunch of my friends and I decided to watch the first Presidential debate, which wouldn't be a problem, save for the fact that it aired at 3am Prague time and didn't end until 4:30 or so! So we all had an early morning pow-wow in the common room of Osadni (my dorm). It's been really interesting to follow the election abroad, really having to go entirely from the online news, and also talking with some Europeans about our current politics. Every local person I've come into contact with here in Prague (and a lady we talked to on the train coming back from Berlin) suggested that the overwhelming majority of people here in Europe  support Sen. Obama and really have trouble wrapping their heads around how Americans could choose otherwise. Of course, they find the Bush regime totally out of line.... as they see it, electing McCain would really be an affront to the rest of the world.

I'd love to hear your thoughts and greetings from home! If you've been reading, let me know..... sometimes it can feel like I'm just writing into cyberspace! (Don't worry, Asher. I know you're reading!) Feel free to email, skype, or comment on my posts here by clicking the blue link below each posting.

Na Shledanou for now!

BERLIN!!

I have returned from Berlin, and do I ever have a blog entry for you guys! We hopped on our train at about 8:30 Friday morning, and after about 2 hours noticed a marked difference.... as soon as we crossed the Czech-German border, not only did the architecture drastically change from the train window into beautiful German houses, but so did the announcements on the train - we were unmistakably in Deutscheland! I have to admit that when we arrived at Hauptbahnhof (the central train station), the three of us were a little overwhelmed... but after getting our Bahn passes and getting settled into our hostel, we finally made it out into the city and were ready to go!

I had heard from my roommates, who went to Berlin the weekend before, about a free tour of the city, so we decided to go.... and it was such a great idea. It was a 3.5 hour tour and really showed us all the major sites in Berlin, from the Brandenburg Gate to Museum Island. The tour really highlighted the history of Germany, particularly in the 1900s. Obviously, Germany and Berlin in particular are not proud of much of their history in that time period, but instead of hiding it or brushing it under the rug, they really make a point of putting it out in the open, apologizing, and moving forward with their very vibrant history that they are building today. For example,the new Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is placed in a heavily-trafficked area so that Berlin residents and tourists alike are unable to miss commemorating a part of history that was so grim for the German people (picture on right). I do have to admit

that it was pretty chilling to be standing over the bunker where Hitler killed himself, and being at the Berlin Wall really took on an added significance. It's one thing to study history and another thing to be in the place where history happened. Other notable sites on the tour included Checkpoint Charlie (left), the former SS headquarters (which 

surprisingly never was destroyed in WWII), and Babelplatz (the site of the infamous Nazi book burning). Our first day ended with some typical German food - Bratwurst and Potatoes, of course - and a walk around the city by night. Berlin is so neat to see all lit up, and we really enjoyed

 getting lost and blindly wondering around the city on a Friday night. (Left - TV tower at night)

The next day, we were up bright and early so that we could go around and see the rest of the city - it's pretty hard to try to get a feel for an entire city in just one weekend! Our first stop was the Reichstag, the German parliamentary building, which has a really cool dome that you can climb to see panoramic views of the city of Berlin. We waited for about an hour, but it was really cool to finally climb the dome and see the entire city with its older and new sections, representing before and after WWII (a recurring theme in Berlin history). Next, it was off to Potsdamerplatz, Berlin's answer to Times Square and home of the Sony Center, a HUGE dome in the middle of the square. By the way, we eventually became pros at the U-Bahn and S-Bahn, Berlin's public transportation..... there are about 30 lines that go everywhere in the city, which is HUGE! It was really fun (albeit a bit tiresome) to navigate the complicated trains, but we didn't make one mistake!

The next stop was one of the highlights of the trip, for sure. The Eastern Gallery is the longest surviving stretch of the Berlin Wall (about 1 mile), which has all sorts of graffiti and commissioned artwork along the length of it. As I mentioned before, it was really amazing to read some of the messages written and drawn on the wall and see how they really had added significance because of the location. It's mind-blowing to realize that people were separated from their family, friends, and loved ones for 30 YEARS, being in the same city the whole time, all because of an oppressive government. Berlin's culture today seems to me to be a rebuttal to those times, emphasizing freedom of speech and expression and embracing its cosmopolitan nature, which is symbolic of the freedom to experience the world - something that was obviously missing during the times of the split. And surprisingly, East and West Berlin today have almost no distinction. They are very much the same city, unified together. 

Before heading back to the city center, we had to get some more German food, this time opting for Currywurst, a local favorite. Imagine a sausage chopped up, drenched with ketchup, and sprinkled with curry powder. Strange, but delicious - especially in Germany! (right) After a stop at the Pergaman Museum to see their exhibit on Ancient Babylon (very cool!), it was finally time to experience Berlin nightlife. Suffice to say, we had a good time (I'm trying to keep my blog relatively tame) and were definitely exhausted by the end of the night.

I didn't mention one part of Saturday, because - for me - it's a grand finale of sorts. After our trip to the museum, we actually decided to check out the State Opera on a whim to see if anything decent was playing that evening. Unfortunately, nothing caught our fancy, but as I was flipping through the season brochure, something did catch my eye. I noticed that one of my favorite baritones, Thomas Quasthoff (a Berliner), was going to be at the State Opera in concert sometime in September. After looking a little closer, I realized that he would be there on Sunday - the day we had to leave Berlin. Of course I was pretty upset, figuring I was going to be missing him by a mere few hours.... until I realized he was performing an 11am concert that lasted for 65 minutes and our train wasn't until 12:45pm. Long story short, we were able to get some cheap, last minute seats and I was able to see one of my musical inspirations in concert in Berlin. It was really an amazing moment for me.... something I hope that I'll always remember. needless to say, we RAN out of the concert hall to make our train, but caught it with 5 minutes to spare!

There's so much more that I could say about the city of Berlin and my experiences there that are really difficult to write out. Of course, you can always take a look at my full gallery of pictures via Picasa or get on Skype and call me! It's amazing that I am able to talk with my parents and friends halfway across the world. I apologize that these posts probably get less coherent as they go along..... it's already about 12:30am here - I tend to get around to doing them late and lose my attention span. With a 9:00am class tomorrow, I think it's time to get to bed!

Disneyland and the Mafia.... an unusual pairing

Well, it seems as though the dust is beginning to settle a bit here in Prague. What that means is that I've finally established somewhat of a routine and am getting used to the ins and outs of daily life here (I still do have a ways to go in that department, though..... it took me about 20 minutes to unsuccessfully look for chicken stock in the supermarket the other day!). While in my first few weeks, I was really trying hard to blend into my surroundings as much as possible, one thing I have definitely learned is that sometimes it really is ok to admit defeat and speak to a store clerk in English, get a little homesick and go to Starbucks, or - screw it - have a conversation with a friend on the otherwise silent metro. I think that in Prague, people don't mind foreigners and tourists at all, just so long as you stay respectful of their culture, their language (which can easily become the butt of many, many jokes), and their history.

This week, my classes have ben particularly interesting. For my Cultural History of the City class, we went to Vysehrad, one of 2 major Hill Forts from the middle ages (the other being Prague Castle). And although it would have been really cool to go up there otherwise, it made it that much more special to really understand the history and cultural context of Vysehrad as it has evolved to the present day. (To the left is my professor lecturing in front of the hill fortification). Vysehrad was rebuilt in the Baroque period as an homage of sorts to Prague's history and its notable public figures. It is now adorned with many sculptures, symbolic artwork, and a cemetery, where Czech "celebrities" have been buried, including the well-known composer Bedrich Smetana. It was really interesting to see how the functional fort has evolved into what my professor calls "Nationalist Disneyland." 

For my advertising class, we went to 2 shopping malls. I know what you're thinking..... what a ridiculous class! But before you judge, know that the first mall was built in the 70s by the Communist party as a way of curbing consumerism. The theory was that citizens were not actually envious of the west's freedom of choice, but rather their ability to consume. As a result, Kotva (the mall) was filled with "things," which most people unfortunately didn't want. When juxtaposed with Palladium, a brand new, sparkling mall rivaling the nicest I've seen in the States, it is easy to see why Kotva failed, although it still is in business today (our professor advised against going to the top floor, the mall's administrative offices, as the mafia has a rather large presence there). 

Tomorrow I am heading to Berlin for the weekend!!! I'll be sure to update and let you know all about my German adventures! Until then, Na Shledanou!

Church of Our Lady of the Snows, which we visited for my Czech Architecture class.

Zmrzlina and Stalagtites

This weekend, I went with a group of about 20 to the towns of Telc and Brno in Southern Moravia. This was a trip planned and paid for by NYU and turned out to be a really wonderful weekend in the Czech Republic. 

After meeting at Namesti Miru in Prague at 7:30 (!!!), we first headed by bus to the tiny town of Telc. The trip was supposed to take roughly 2.5 hours, but instead took an extra hour, since our bus driver got very, very lost! In any event, it was a good chance to see the "real Czech Republic" via a few typical towns we found ourselves in on our detour. The hour delay caused us to miss our tour at Telc castle, so instead we were able to walk around a bit and grab lunch or zmrzlina (ice cream) before the next scheduled tour. Telc is a beautiful town, consisting pretty much of one large square comprised of small shops and restaurants. The town is so picturesque and quaint that fairy tales are filmed there quite frequently! In any event, a few 

friends and I  decided to go to a pizzeria (it was early and one of the few restaurants open). When we saw the pizzas on the menu, all of them contained "ketchup," which we assumed to be an incorrect translation of "tomato sauce." Wrong assumption. After eating our mushroom/ketchup or ham/ketchup pizzas (not quite as gross as they sound, but still pretty gross), we continued on to Telc Castle, a wonderfully European medieval castle that was every bit as lavish as you would expect!

Next, we boarded the bus for our main destination, Brno. Brno is the 2nd largest city in the Czech Republic, though much of it was bombed in the war, making it much less picturesque than Prague. Brno and Moravia are known for their Burcak, or "young wine," and it just happens to now be prime Burcak season. Once we got to Brno, we immediately saw many Burcak stands set up in the street and got to taste the sweet juice-like drink (which can sneak up on you if you're not careful!). In Brno, we also toured the Spilberk Castle, a prison/fortification at the top of the hill. That evening, we were treated to dinner at what our guides called the "Czech version of Applebee's" - we call it Czechlebee's. At Czechlebee's they have an odd assortment of Americanized food (think buffalo wings and burgers) alongside traditional Czech cuisine (goulash and pork neck). Of course, Czechlebee's is actually a chain restaurant owned by Staropramen, a beer company popular in the Czech Republic!

On day 2 of our Southern Bohemia adventure, we were treated to a tour of Villa Tugendhat, the first house employing modern architectural techniques, most notably functionalism. Built in 1930, the house employs simplistic use of lines and curves. Everything in Villa Tugendhat has a use (nothing was built for aesthetic purposes) - it is also the first house to utilize air conditioning! Tugendhat is a stark contrast from the beautiful architecture we've been seeing in Prague, but it was really cool to see some modern history for a change! In my opinion, Villa Tugendhat has a fantastic aesthetic in its own right. Another interesting fact - Villa Tugendhat is where the document separating Czechoslovakia was signed.

Our final stop was a visit to the Macocha abyss and Punkva caves. I don't recall having ever stood at the top of an abyss before, but it was really awesome (not to mention a bit frightening) to look so far down! After viewing the abyss, we took a cable car down to the cave entrance, where we, along with a group of older Polish tourists (an interesting combo) walked through the caves and eventually boarded a boat - yes, a boat IN the cave! Many in our group likened the boat ride to the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disney, but MUCH more awesome! It was truly spectacular to be surrounded by such awesome natural wonders and a great way to end the trip.

Our trip was on Friday-Saturday, and today (Sunday) I was able to go to the world-famous Prague zoo! Not as impressive as I was hoping, but I still got to see some pretty cool animals - polar bears, tigers, giraffes, giselles, and more! The porcupine, of course, made me think of my brother Josh. For those of you who don't know the story - when Josh was little and people used to ask him what he wanted to be when he grew up, he would always say "a porcupine!" Now that I've thoroughly embarrassed him, I think it's time for me to get to sleep.... sometimes I forget that I'm actually in school and have classes to attend!