Thanksgiving, Prague-style

*Photo Courtesy of Julie Moody -- thanks!

Let me preface this entry by saying that Thanksgiving in Prague was not the same as Thanksgiving at home. Not even close. In fact, classes were held on Thanksgiving day, and many of our professors were oblivious to the fact that it was an American holiday; of course, Czech life went on here in Prague as if nothing was out of the ordinary..... and for good reason! I was not with my family, was not able to watch the parade (as I lamented in my previous post), and missed many aspects of what is usually one of my favorite holidays.

That being said, the crew here at NYU in Prague did a pretty solid job in bringing some of the comforts of home here to the Czech Republic. I actually celebrated Thanksgiving twice - on Thanksgiving Thursday, pretty much the whole of NYU in Prague trekked to Richtruv Dum - one of our buildings in Old Town - to enjoy a feast catered by the owner of an American-style restaurant in town. The event was organized by one of the students here at NYU, who I'm pretty sure had no idea how big of an undertaking he was getting himself into, but nonetheless managed to pull off a pretty darn good event, if you ask me. Imagine 200 NYU students (and some family, friends, and staff), plus an open bar, plus all the home-style, traditional American Thanksgiving food you can eat..... and good food, at that! I think a lot of people were not sure what to expect going into their first "Czech Thanksgiving," but we were all quite pleasantly surprised!

Our second Thanksgiving was held last night, with almost all the members of Osadni, our 60-person dormitory, pitching in to put on a full-blown pot-luck Thanksgiving. Again - wonderful (and home-cooked!!) food, lots of drinks (it is the Czech Republic, after all), and wonderful company, as well. I managed to contribute some delicious mixed vegetables, roasted with rosemary - something I think many people were grateful for, given the lack of vegetables on many Czech menus. All food aside, if I couldn't be with my real family on Thanksgiving, I was so happy to be in the company of my surrogate one here in Prague. It's been quite a memorable weekend, which I think I'll definitely remember not for what I missed, but rather for what I had..... isn't that the point of Thanksgiving, after all?

A picture of the gang at Osadni Thanksgiving

Baths, Communism, the Danube, and Thanksgiving!

Budapest and the Czech Republic are two very different places. The language, the people, the food, the currency...... though Budapest was evocative of Prague and other European cities (namely Vienna), it was certainly a place unlike anywhere I had been before. Here's the general rundown of my weekend in Hungary:

Our first night there, we were super exhausted (after an 8-hour train ride, can you blame us?). So we decided to hit the BATHS. Hungarian baths are an awesome, unique, confusing, and certainly interesting experience. Pretty much, Szecheny (the baths we went to) are located in a beautiful and HUGE neo-classical complex that houses saunas, massage rooms, locker rooms, steam rooms, etc. And the building is located around a giant outdoor courtyard with three gigantic hot pools filled with mineral water. We decided to forego the saunas and went in the actual baths instead. They're super relaxing and very refreshing...... until you decide to switch to a new one, at which point you get out of the pool into the FREEZING winter air and run across the deck to the next pool. Still, we had a great time relaxing and partaking in a typical Hungarian activity!

Taking advantage of the fantastic exchange rate, we had some great Hungarian meals, especially our first night. We found a very nice restaurant/winery, got ourselves a gigantic platter of meat and cheeses, a bottle of wine, and entrees.... all for about $20! Budapest also has great Turkish food, as well as great traditional cuisine - think goulash, meats in sauce, fishes, etc. It's easy to eat very well for under $10!

Other highlights of Budapest:

- A fantastic walking tour, taking us to all the main sites of Buda and Pest (Budapest is actually 2 cities). We saw St. Stephen's Cathedral (and the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand, where St. Stephen's right hand lies in a reliquary!), the many bridges running along the Danube, the castles in the Castle District (Castle Hill), the Bastion, and many aerial views taken from the Buda side.

- A trip to the Grand Market, where we got some great Hungarian food for lunch and enjoyed looking at the merchants selling spices, wines, meats, and fruit.

- A few visits to the wonderful Christmas market they had set up in the main square at the foot of Vaci Utca - the main street in Budapest. (right)

- A visit to Heroes Square, the site of a few picturesque museums, as well as an impressive victory arch.

- We went to the "House of Terror," the former headquarters of the communist party in Hungary, which now serves as a museum documenting Hungary's political history. This museum was incredibly depressing, yet also very eye-opening. It seems as though the Hungarians have had one political misfortune after another, especially in the 1900s, with Nazism and many different periods of oppressive communist rule. It was chilling to see the cellar of the building, where countless people were tortured, imprisoned, and executed just for exercising their freedom of speech - against the party in power. In any event, it's much easier to understand why the Hungarian people (and the Czech people, for that matter) can come across as unhappy, mistrusting, and reserved. Definitely makes one stop and think about the basic freedoms that we take for granted in America. It's really unbelievable to me that such oppression can rise to power without a significant amount of people stopping to think that something might be seriously wrong...

- After a pretty somber experience at the museum, our hostel organized a booze cruise along the Danube, followed by a pub crawl - those certainly lifted our spirits!

- Before we left, we followed Budapest tradition and stopped at Gerbeaud Cafe to relax, sip some Viennese-style coffee, and enjoy delicious cakes!

As far as I know, I'm officially done with trips out of the Czech Republic for the semester. I've had SUCH an amazing time traveling all over Europe, but I'm really excited to settle down, stay in Prague for a few weeks, and finish seeing and doing all the things that I haven't gotten around to yet. It's hard to believe that I'm only here for another 4 weeks, but I'm really very excited to get back to the US. We're looking forward to Thanksgiving in Prague - some of us in my dorm are cooking a traditional style meal - but I can't help but think that it's not quite the same..... I'm going to miss watching the Macy's Parade on Thursday morning, and of course being with my family. My Mom has reminded me, though, that although it's tough to be away from home, I'm having experiences here that many people can only dream of. For that, I'm truly thankful. I hope everyone has a great holiday - talk to you soon!

A few days in the Swiss Alps.... it sure is a tough life.

Let me tell you.... some things just keep on getting better and better - namely, my trips around Europe. This past monday was a Czech holiday (celebrating the Velvet Revolution), so naturally we decided to go somewhere on our extra-long weekend! Some of my friends and I chose Interlaken, Switzerland..... and what a great choice it was! Now, there's not much sightseeing to do in Interlaken, meaning there are very few churches, public buildings, monuments, famous landmarks, etc. But the beauty of the Swiss Alps in the Jungfrau Region (where Interlaken is located) is truly breathtaking and the people are so friendly (especially as opposed to the more reserved nature of the Czechs). After a 12-hour bus ride there (major bummer), We spent our three days in Interlaken relaxing, taking in the sights, hiking, going way up in the mountains....... oh yeah, and I also jumped off of an 80m/250ft cliff!

The 80m Cliff I jumped off of!!

Yeah, I'm not kidding. It was the scariest, craziest thing I've ever done in my life..... but what a rush! Canyon Jumping is pretty much like bungee jumping, except instead of jumping backwards and straight down, you jump right off of a platform (free fall) and into the canyon, all the while looking at the rocky surface below! The good news is that I, in fact, have lived to tell the tale.

Aside from insane extreme sports, we got to see so many absolutely stunning parts of the Swiss Alps and Interlaken's surrounding lakes, as well as the city of Bern (not my favorite, but still quite charming, albeit insanely expensive). On our second day, we woke up at 6am to catch a 7am train to Jungfraujoch, the "top of Europe" and the highest train station on the continent. As we climbed higher and higher along the 2.5 hour trip, it became snowier and ever more scenic. It was definitely the most beautiful train ride I've ever been on - the sights of the tiny Swiss towns, and then the expanse of the mountains were absolutely unbelievable. And once we got to the top, it was even more impressive than we had hoped. Of course, Jungfraujoch is covered with snow, ice, and glaciers, and you can see as far as France and Italy.... where it looks like the ground is covered with water in the distance far below, it is actually a layer of clouds that we were above! And at the Jungfraujoch complex, there are observatories, a plateau that one can observe the view from, and a huge palace completely made of ice and laden with intricate ice sculptures!

On our way down, the train stopped at many small towns, and we were able to hop on and off the train as we pleased. After exploring a few, we decided to get off at Grindelwald and find a trail to hike. Needless to say, we ventured far away from Grindelwald on our 2+ hour hike and found our way far, far up in the mountains, passing through many small towns, as well as natural creeks and waterfalls. The Swiss houses were almost like right out of a movie, and the views were, again, absolutely breathtaking. 

I know I often encourage you guys to have a look at my pictures, but I really mean it this time! If you go to my Picasa (link on the right), you can see the entirety of my photo collection from Switzerland. They are absolutely stunning.

It seems as though there is no rest for the weary.... tomorrow morning, I leave for Budapest - the last of my many excursions around Europe!

Auf Wiedersehen!

Lake of Brienz, one of the two surrounding Interlaken

On Being American in Europe

Studying in Europe for a semester has given me so much added perspective on what it means to be American - both personally and as viewed by foreigners. It has made me become more aware of my actions, mannerisms, and language and also those of other Americans around me. It's a strange environment here, being an American surrounded by non-Americans. And though I could not purport to have the same trains of thought as a European, I think that my perspective has shifted, and I am much more able to look objectively at my fellow Americans, especially those I've encountered here in Europe.

It's too bad that Americans get a bad rap, throughout Europe in particular, as bad guests. But again, after traveling around for a bit, it can be pretty easy to see why. After all, I've found that the archetypical "ugly American" is not a myth, but a sad fact. This is not to say that all Americans are obnoxious, loud, and impolite, but unfortunately, those exhibiting such behaviors are, about 4 times out of 5, indeed Americans. What exactly are these behaviors, though? What is an Ugly American? Some of the answers might surprise you as they have me, but many will be painfully obvious. Of course, these are just my observations after traveling around Europe, particularly the Czech Republic.

-The Ugly American is loud. Like, really loud, especially in comparison to those around them. Many public places in Europe, such as subways and trams tend to be quiet, but the Ugly American pays no attention.

-The Ugly American assumes and expects that everyone speaks English. He does not attempt to learn or use the language of the country that he is in, even in a basic capacity.

-The Ugly American is mistrusting of the country he is visiting and the people in it. He assumes that goods and services in that country will inevitably be inferior to those of the US.

-The Ugly American constantly compares the USA to the country he is visiting. Instead of acknowledging, or even enjoying cultural differences, he is quick to criticize them.

-The Ugly American dresses in clothes laden with American logos.

-The Ugly American expects foreigners to understand and comply with American nuances in language, mannerisms, and customs, instead of attempting to conform to those of the country he is visiting. He does not pick up on cultural cues.

-The Ugly American would rather eat something familiar than try something traditional to the country he is visiting.

-The Ugly American has difficulty grasping the concept that most cities are not created solely for tourists and that native people are not tourist attractions.

-The Ugly American sees sights for the sake of seeing them. He does not attempt to understand their cultural or historical significance.

I'm sure I could come up with more.... I'd be curious to have some feedback on this issue, as well. Do you agree or disagree?

I'm off to Interlaken, Switzerland for a long weekend. I have BIG plans, but will keep them secret until the actually pan out!

A Picture Blog on Vienna

This past Thursday-Friday, I went to Vienna with my parents. Here are some of my favorite pictures:

The Entrance to the Hapsburgs' Schönbrunn Palace

In the back of the palace

Statue of Mozart

Other highlights of Vienna:

- Trip to the Sound Museum and to Mozart's House

- Seeing Die Fledermaus (a Strauss Operetta) at the Volksoper

- A walk around the entire main ring of the city, observing the Viennese architecture and grandiose buildings and churches

- Delicious Viennese pastries and Schnitzel, of course!

And last, but not least... 

- Getting to spend some quality time with my parents!

FALL BREAK

I'm back from my fantastic trip to Belgium and the Netherlands, and rather than rehash everything I did (there's absolutely no way), I'll try to give some highlights instead. I will say that on my trip I:

-Ate more frites, waffles, and chocolate than I thought humanly possible

-Learned that I am not and never will be Flemish (thanks to a long conversation - we're talking 3 hours - with a Flemish man at a pub in Brugge)

-Climbed 2 church towers and a giant atom for a total of 3 panoramic city views

-Discovered that there can be a language barrier abroad

-Almost got run over by approximately 300 bicycles

-Found a vast array of ethnic diversity in places that I wouldn't have expected

-Was on more trains than I can count (and got to where I was going without any problem!)

-Saw original Picasso, Monet, Manet, Michelangelo, Van Gogh, Rembrant, Dali, and modern art pieces, just to name a few

-Found that Amsterdam consists of much more than its Red Light District

-Developed a deeper understanding of Dutch and Belgian culture.... and, subsequently, formulated many new reflections on Czech culture, as well.

...... and that's the trip in a nutshell!

BRUGGE

Brugge is my new favorite city. In the world. It is also, by far, the most beautiful city I've ever been to in my life. Brugge is considered to be the best-preserved medieval town in the world, which really is also reflected in its character. The people are lovely and speak English very well, in addition to their native Flemish. We really felt at home in Brugge and also had a bit of time to wander, relax, and take in the beautiful surroundings. Our first day, that's about all we did, and it still seemed like we saw so much! Other things we did in Brugge:

-Climbed to the top of the bell tower

-Ate our first Frites (with Andalouse sauce, a mix of ketchup, mayo, and spices), waffles, chocolate, and mussels

-Took a boat along the many canals of Bruges (the tour was in at least 3-4 languages, led by one person!)

-Saw the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which contains a relic, purportedly of Jesus's actual blood

-Went to the Chocolate Museum - yum!

-Met some locals at a few pubs (all were so nice and welcomed us warmly to their city)

-Saw Michelangelo's "Madonna and Child" in the Church of Our Lady, my new favorite church

-Checked out a few other churches and castles

-Shopped at an awesome market we found along a canal

BRUSSELS

Brussels' reputation preceded it as a city whose beauty...... leaves much to be desired, shall we say. The people speak French, which was a bit difficult, as none of the 4 of us spoke a word, and many of the people in restaurants, etc. didn't speak much English. That being said, Brussels definitely grew on me, and we saw a lot of cool stuff there. Although their parks aren't very well-kept and it seems as though the whole city may be under construction, there was still a lot that we were able to do and see there, including:

-A trip to the GIANT Atomium, Brussels' most famous landmark and the site of the 1956 World's Fair. We also went inside to check it out and see a view of the city from atop!

-The Manneken Pis, Brussels' teeny, but famous statue of a little boy relieving himself

-Seeing many palaces and government buildings of Belgium and the European Union

-Brussels' impressive triumphal arch

-The most bizarre flea market I have ever been to. Ever.

-Brussels' Auto museum, a huge collection of cars dating back to the 1800s and up to the present day

-A late night trip to the restroom..... on the side of a church? Brussels has many urinals located on the sides of impressive cathedrals. God only knows why.

ROTTERDAM

Rotterdam's beauty comes from a different place than Brugge's does, as the city was completely destroyed in WWII. Therefore, Rotterdam (in The Netherlands) is a haven for modern architecture, featuring many impressive skyscrapers and a sleek, white bridge. Rotterdam's maritime importance also plays a big part in its culture, as it is the world's 2nd largest port. I was able to meet my friend Melissa (from LHS!!!) in Rotterdam, as she is studying abroad there this semester. It's awesome how two people from the same town (virtually) can meet up completely across the world in Europe! Melissa was an awesome host and told us a lot about the city..... AND introduced us to kapsalon, one of my new favorite foods, derived from The Netherlands' large Turkish population. It is a recipe for a heart attack, and is made up of french fried, meat, melted cheese, salad, garlic sauce, and hot sauce!!! But trust me, it's delicious! Other adventures in Rotterdam:

-Running around in the POURING rain ALL DAY! This really put a damper on things, but didn't stop us from walking all around the very large and UN-walkable city

-Visiting the Blaak Markt, where we got some fried fish and stroopwafels (another Dutch favorite)

-A self-guided walking tour of the city's modern buildings and shipyards

-A rainy, miserable, horrible (get the picture?) walk across the Erasmus Bridge (above)

-The Nederlands Photo Museum in Rotterdam, which featured a brilliant exhibit of Martien Coppens' work

-The Bojmans museum of modern art.... not my thing, but still very interesting

-Some Dutch croquettes to finish off that leg of our trip!

AMSTERDAM

As a college student, I have heard quite a bit about Amsterdam...... much of which is true. However, Amsterdam is also a beautiful city with an interesting history and a cultural richness, as well. Yes, prostitution is legal and marijuana is not punishable - owing to a pretty interesting nightlife scene - but the city itself exudes a really great energy that has a lot to do with things other than sex and drugs. I found that, of all the places I've visited so far (including Prague and perhaps excluding Dublin), I think I could see myself living in Amsterdam the most. As another city built on a system of canals, Amsterdam was an interesting fusion between classic beauty - a la Brugge - and a consumerist, commercial attitude, which almost reminded me of New York. We spent 2 full days in Amsterdam, going all around the city and doing a lot of really interesting things, including:

-A 3 hour walking tour, which was a great introduction to Dutch and Amsterdam history, architecture, culture, and attitudes

-A visit to the Anne Frank house, where she stayed for 2 years and wrote her diary

-The Van Gogh museum, which (I believe) houses the largest collection of the artist's work

-A taste of Indonesian food, which that region is known for

-A walk through Vondelpark, Amsterdam's most famous (and beautiful) park

-The Sex Museum, one of the best in the world, apparently

-Some of the best goat cheese I've ever eaten in my life, served on bread with honey and roasted red pepper

-A trip through the Red Light District...... quite an interesting experience, as I'm sure you might expect!

-Definitely took advantage of Amsterdam's vibrant nightlife..... but didn't go overboard (don't worry, Mom and Dad!!!)

DELFT

My mother visited Delft a looooooooooooong time ago, when she was backpacking through Europe and urged me to do the same, as it's a beautiful place that evokes a lot of what you might expect from a small Dutch town. A few of us decided to go for a few hours on our last day. And while it was rainy the whole time, we still enjoyed seeing a lot of Delft's beautiful old churches and meandering streets along its canals. We were able to go inside the New Church, where William of Orange is buried, and climb up its bell tower to get an impressive view of the town and its surrounding countryside. We finished up our trip with a quick walk around town, popping into the Old (Oude) Church and getting one final frites and mayonnaise. A fantastic ending to a wonderful, memorable trip.

And tomorrow, my parents arrive here in Prague! Looking forward to seeing them and traveling to Vienna with them, too. And by the next time I write, we'll know who our next president will be, as well. It should be quite an exciting week! As always, you can look at my Picasa for all my pictures (and there are a lot of them this time!). They should hopefully be up by Monday or Tuesday.