Na Shledanou.... for real, this time!

I will be on a plane home in about 12 hours. For me and many of my colleagues, it's an extremely strange feeling. I'm leaving this place that I've come to think of as my "home-base" of sorts for the past 4 months and it's an interesting phenomenon - a mix of happiness, sadness, and the knowledge that everything hasn't quite sunk in just yet. I'm sure that next week I'll feel a whole new range of emotions that I can really only know once I have some perspective and can look at things in retrospect.

This has been an amazing experience - there's no debating that. Did I miss home at points? Yes. Were there times that I wanted to just come back to the US? Absolutely. Living in a foreign environment can take a toll on you - especially in an environment where you don't speak the language and don't really stand much of a chance at learning it, beyond basic survival phrases. That being said, I've definitely gained some perspective on what it's like to be a foreigner in someone else's home turf... and I hope that I'll be able to draw on my experiences here in my interactions with foreigners back home. In my first few blogs, I frequently referred to Study Abroad here as a "trip." Let me say, after completing the program, that this was not just a trip, not a vacation, not a tourist excursion. I can say proudly that I have lived in Prague and really got more out of that experience than I could ever have hoped to from just a visit. Many people come back from abroad and refer to their destination as their "second home." That won't be me. After getting a feel of the city and really experiencing the ins and outs of Czech everyday life, I can say with full certainty that I will not be returning back to live here. And although I appreciate many things about the Czech Republic and Prague, there are many aspects to life here which definitely are just a little too much for me to handle, though I have tried my best to understand why these things are the way they are.

I'm so thankful for the chance to spend this semester in a way that I never thought I ever would. I've done so many things, seen so many places, and gotten to know so many people that have opened my eyes to new things. And although I didn't get to see everything I wanted to (both in Prague and elsewhere in Europe), I've come to realize that this is a reality of traveling: for every one thing I didn't get to do, I was able to do something else that was not even on my radar at the beginning of the semester - in fact, two of my favorite places I visited this semester (Bruges and Switzerland) we never in the master plan before I left for Prague. This spontaneity, to me, is the most exciting thing about travel.

Anyway, I hope to post at least one more entry once I've get back to the states, but should that not be possible, I'd like to thank everyone who's followed along with my journeys. It's been a fun ride, and I hope you've enjoyed reading my thoughts and feelings about the places I've seen. I look forward to discussing them in further detail with many of you in person!

So - to Prague - NA SHLEDANOU and DEKUJI MOC!

A Beer-tastic excursion

"Imagine the sense of wonder when its golden colour glittered and the snow-white head rose above it; how drinkers were amazed when they encountered the crisp, remarkable taste, till then unknown among beers, in which this domestic product gloried" - such were the grandiloquent words with which the chronicler described the day when citizens of Pilsen first tasted Pilsner lager.

The preceding quote was taken directly from the pamphlet I received at the Pilsner Urquell factory in Plzen (English spelling: Pilsen) in Western Bohemia, Czech Republic. As you can tell, Czechs are serious about their beer... and for those of you who don't know, Pilsner Urquell is considered by most to be the premier beer of the Czech Republic. So what better to do on a Friday off than a day trip out to the place where the stuff is made... the Pilsner Brewery?!

After arriving in the city of Plzen, looking around a bit, and scarfing down a good helping of delicious Czech food (goulash, dumplings, etc.), my friends and I made our way to the factory. We paid a whopping 80kc apiece - the equivalent of $4 - for our tour... and since it's the off season for tourism, we were the only English-speakers there and were thus treated to our own private tour guide! On the tour we got a feel for the entire beer-making process, as well as an idea of the history of beer-brewing in Plzen. We were able to see where the beer was packaged (right), mixed, brewed, fermented, and stored.... and, of course, got to taste the raw products that go into the beer (hops, water, barley), as well as the beverage itself! The beer we got was poured from a tap straight out of the barrel - aka, it was not fully fermented, nor was it filtered or pasteurized! Even though it still had some "stuff" floating around in it, it was definitely some of the best beer I've had - and that's saying a lot!

They even had a Pilsner vending machine!!!

It's Christmastime in Prague!!

...and what does that mean? Christmas markets all over the city!

The biggest is in Old Town Square - Staromestske Namesti - and has rows and rows of booths selling traditional food, sweets, hot wine, gifts, and more. They even have a pen with farm animals!! Of course, the centerpiece is a beautifully lit tree, which stands in front of Tyn Cathedral. I know I'm in the Christmas spirit!

Thanksgiving, Prague-style

*Photo Courtesy of Julie Moody -- thanks!

Let me preface this entry by saying that Thanksgiving in Prague was not the same as Thanksgiving at home. Not even close. In fact, classes were held on Thanksgiving day, and many of our professors were oblivious to the fact that it was an American holiday; of course, Czech life went on here in Prague as if nothing was out of the ordinary..... and for good reason! I was not with my family, was not able to watch the parade (as I lamented in my previous post), and missed many aspects of what is usually one of my favorite holidays.

That being said, the crew here at NYU in Prague did a pretty solid job in bringing some of the comforts of home here to the Czech Republic. I actually celebrated Thanksgiving twice - on Thanksgiving Thursday, pretty much the whole of NYU in Prague trekked to Richtruv Dum - one of our buildings in Old Town - to enjoy a feast catered by the owner of an American-style restaurant in town. The event was organized by one of the students here at NYU, who I'm pretty sure had no idea how big of an undertaking he was getting himself into, but nonetheless managed to pull off a pretty darn good event, if you ask me. Imagine 200 NYU students (and some family, friends, and staff), plus an open bar, plus all the home-style, traditional American Thanksgiving food you can eat..... and good food, at that! I think a lot of people were not sure what to expect going into their first "Czech Thanksgiving," but we were all quite pleasantly surprised!

Our second Thanksgiving was held last night, with almost all the members of Osadni, our 60-person dormitory, pitching in to put on a full-blown pot-luck Thanksgiving. Again - wonderful (and home-cooked!!) food, lots of drinks (it is the Czech Republic, after all), and wonderful company, as well. I managed to contribute some delicious mixed vegetables, roasted with rosemary - something I think many people were grateful for, given the lack of vegetables on many Czech menus. All food aside, if I couldn't be with my real family on Thanksgiving, I was so happy to be in the company of my surrogate one here in Prague. It's been quite a memorable weekend, which I think I'll definitely remember not for what I missed, but rather for what I had..... isn't that the point of Thanksgiving, after all?

A picture of the gang at Osadni Thanksgiving

Baths, Communism, the Danube, and Thanksgiving!

Budapest and the Czech Republic are two very different places. The language, the people, the food, the currency...... though Budapest was evocative of Prague and other European cities (namely Vienna), it was certainly a place unlike anywhere I had been before. Here's the general rundown of my weekend in Hungary:

Our first night there, we were super exhausted (after an 8-hour train ride, can you blame us?). So we decided to hit the BATHS. Hungarian baths are an awesome, unique, confusing, and certainly interesting experience. Pretty much, Szecheny (the baths we went to) are located in a beautiful and HUGE neo-classical complex that houses saunas, massage rooms, locker rooms, steam rooms, etc. And the building is located around a giant outdoor courtyard with three gigantic hot pools filled with mineral water. We decided to forego the saunas and went in the actual baths instead. They're super relaxing and very refreshing...... until you decide to switch to a new one, at which point you get out of the pool into the FREEZING winter air and run across the deck to the next pool. Still, we had a great time relaxing and partaking in a typical Hungarian activity!

Taking advantage of the fantastic exchange rate, we had some great Hungarian meals, especially our first night. We found a very nice restaurant/winery, got ourselves a gigantic platter of meat and cheeses, a bottle of wine, and entrees.... all for about $20! Budapest also has great Turkish food, as well as great traditional cuisine - think goulash, meats in sauce, fishes, etc. It's easy to eat very well for under $10!

Other highlights of Budapest:

- A fantastic walking tour, taking us to all the main sites of Buda and Pest (Budapest is actually 2 cities). We saw St. Stephen's Cathedral (and the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand, where St. Stephen's right hand lies in a reliquary!), the many bridges running along the Danube, the castles in the Castle District (Castle Hill), the Bastion, and many aerial views taken from the Buda side.

- A trip to the Grand Market, where we got some great Hungarian food for lunch and enjoyed looking at the merchants selling spices, wines, meats, and fruit.

- A few visits to the wonderful Christmas market they had set up in the main square at the foot of Vaci Utca - the main street in Budapest. (right)

- A visit to Heroes Square, the site of a few picturesque museums, as well as an impressive victory arch.

- We went to the "House of Terror," the former headquarters of the communist party in Hungary, which now serves as a museum documenting Hungary's political history. This museum was incredibly depressing, yet also very eye-opening. It seems as though the Hungarians have had one political misfortune after another, especially in the 1900s, with Nazism and many different periods of oppressive communist rule. It was chilling to see the cellar of the building, where countless people were tortured, imprisoned, and executed just for exercising their freedom of speech - against the party in power. In any event, it's much easier to understand why the Hungarian people (and the Czech people, for that matter) can come across as unhappy, mistrusting, and reserved. Definitely makes one stop and think about the basic freedoms that we take for granted in America. It's really unbelievable to me that such oppression can rise to power without a significant amount of people stopping to think that something might be seriously wrong...

- After a pretty somber experience at the museum, our hostel organized a booze cruise along the Danube, followed by a pub crawl - those certainly lifted our spirits!

- Before we left, we followed Budapest tradition and stopped at Gerbeaud Cafe to relax, sip some Viennese-style coffee, and enjoy delicious cakes!

As far as I know, I'm officially done with trips out of the Czech Republic for the semester. I've had SUCH an amazing time traveling all over Europe, but I'm really excited to settle down, stay in Prague for a few weeks, and finish seeing and doing all the things that I haven't gotten around to yet. It's hard to believe that I'm only here for another 4 weeks, but I'm really very excited to get back to the US. We're looking forward to Thanksgiving in Prague - some of us in my dorm are cooking a traditional style meal - but I can't help but think that it's not quite the same..... I'm going to miss watching the Macy's Parade on Thursday morning, and of course being with my family. My Mom has reminded me, though, that although it's tough to be away from home, I'm having experiences here that many people can only dream of. For that, I'm truly thankful. I hope everyone has a great holiday - talk to you soon!

A few days in the Swiss Alps.... it sure is a tough life.

Let me tell you.... some things just keep on getting better and better - namely, my trips around Europe. This past monday was a Czech holiday (celebrating the Velvet Revolution), so naturally we decided to go somewhere on our extra-long weekend! Some of my friends and I chose Interlaken, Switzerland..... and what a great choice it was! Now, there's not much sightseeing to do in Interlaken, meaning there are very few churches, public buildings, monuments, famous landmarks, etc. But the beauty of the Swiss Alps in the Jungfrau Region (where Interlaken is located) is truly breathtaking and the people are so friendly (especially as opposed to the more reserved nature of the Czechs). After a 12-hour bus ride there (major bummer), We spent our three days in Interlaken relaxing, taking in the sights, hiking, going way up in the mountains....... oh yeah, and I also jumped off of an 80m/250ft cliff!

The 80m Cliff I jumped off of!!

Yeah, I'm not kidding. It was the scariest, craziest thing I've ever done in my life..... but what a rush! Canyon Jumping is pretty much like bungee jumping, except instead of jumping backwards and straight down, you jump right off of a platform (free fall) and into the canyon, all the while looking at the rocky surface below! The good news is that I, in fact, have lived to tell the tale.

Aside from insane extreme sports, we got to see so many absolutely stunning parts of the Swiss Alps and Interlaken's surrounding lakes, as well as the city of Bern (not my favorite, but still quite charming, albeit insanely expensive). On our second day, we woke up at 6am to catch a 7am train to Jungfraujoch, the "top of Europe" and the highest train station on the continent. As we climbed higher and higher along the 2.5 hour trip, it became snowier and ever more scenic. It was definitely the most beautiful train ride I've ever been on - the sights of the tiny Swiss towns, and then the expanse of the mountains were absolutely unbelievable. And once we got to the top, it was even more impressive than we had hoped. Of course, Jungfraujoch is covered with snow, ice, and glaciers, and you can see as far as France and Italy.... where it looks like the ground is covered with water in the distance far below, it is actually a layer of clouds that we were above! And at the Jungfraujoch complex, there are observatories, a plateau that one can observe the view from, and a huge palace completely made of ice and laden with intricate ice sculptures!

On our way down, the train stopped at many small towns, and we were able to hop on and off the train as we pleased. After exploring a few, we decided to get off at Grindelwald and find a trail to hike. Needless to say, we ventured far away from Grindelwald on our 2+ hour hike and found our way far, far up in the mountains, passing through many small towns, as well as natural creeks and waterfalls. The Swiss houses were almost like right out of a movie, and the views were, again, absolutely breathtaking. 

I know I often encourage you guys to have a look at my pictures, but I really mean it this time! If you go to my Picasa (link on the right), you can see the entirety of my photo collection from Switzerland. They are absolutely stunning.

It seems as though there is no rest for the weary.... tomorrow morning, I leave for Budapest - the last of my many excursions around Europe!

Auf Wiedersehen!

Lake of Brienz, one of the two surrounding Interlaken

On Being American in Europe

Studying in Europe for a semester has given me so much added perspective on what it means to be American - both personally and as viewed by foreigners. It has made me become more aware of my actions, mannerisms, and language and also those of other Americans around me. It's a strange environment here, being an American surrounded by non-Americans. And though I could not purport to have the same trains of thought as a European, I think that my perspective has shifted, and I am much more able to look objectively at my fellow Americans, especially those I've encountered here in Europe.

It's too bad that Americans get a bad rap, throughout Europe in particular, as bad guests. But again, after traveling around for a bit, it can be pretty easy to see why. After all, I've found that the archetypical "ugly American" is not a myth, but a sad fact. This is not to say that all Americans are obnoxious, loud, and impolite, but unfortunately, those exhibiting such behaviors are, about 4 times out of 5, indeed Americans. What exactly are these behaviors, though? What is an Ugly American? Some of the answers might surprise you as they have me, but many will be painfully obvious. Of course, these are just my observations after traveling around Europe, particularly the Czech Republic.

-The Ugly American is loud. Like, really loud, especially in comparison to those around them. Many public places in Europe, such as subways and trams tend to be quiet, but the Ugly American pays no attention.

-The Ugly American assumes and expects that everyone speaks English. He does not attempt to learn or use the language of the country that he is in, even in a basic capacity.

-The Ugly American is mistrusting of the country he is visiting and the people in it. He assumes that goods and services in that country will inevitably be inferior to those of the US.

-The Ugly American constantly compares the USA to the country he is visiting. Instead of acknowledging, or even enjoying cultural differences, he is quick to criticize them.

-The Ugly American dresses in clothes laden with American logos.

-The Ugly American expects foreigners to understand and comply with American nuances in language, mannerisms, and customs, instead of attempting to conform to those of the country he is visiting. He does not pick up on cultural cues.

-The Ugly American would rather eat something familiar than try something traditional to the country he is visiting.

-The Ugly American has difficulty grasping the concept that most cities are not created solely for tourists and that native people are not tourist attractions.

-The Ugly American sees sights for the sake of seeing them. He does not attempt to understand their cultural or historical significance.

I'm sure I could come up with more.... I'd be curious to have some feedback on this issue, as well. Do you agree or disagree?

I'm off to Interlaken, Switzerland for a long weekend. I have BIG plans, but will keep them secret until the actually pan out!